Testing the waters of a famous spa town - welcome to Mariánské Lázně

Testing the waters of a famous spa town - welcome to Mariánské Lázně

Written by Deborah Welsh

Testing the waters of a famous spa town - welcome to Mariánské Lázně
Just when I thought I couldn’t be more dazzled or seduced by the Czech Republic, along comes this little beauty. After a really comfortable and easy train ride from the bustle of Prague, I landed in a little piece of Heaven on earth. It was so quiet I wondered if anyone else was here at all but it’s just a sleepy, unhurried spot where stress is clearly not an issue.
Mariánské Lázně is one of three towns in the Czech Spa Triangle. The other two being Karlovy Vary and Františkovy Lázně.
It was my good fortune to be visiting Mariánské Lázně and staying at the magnificent Nove Lazne hotel.After a whistle stop tour of Prague and a whole load of big stuff going on in my life back home, I was in dire need of some R&R and boy, did I find it.
It feels like this town was made for relaxing but it is also a serious wellness destination. A string of famous, historic faces came to seek solace in its spas, attracting influential patrons  such as royalty, heads of state, writers, composers and artists. They all flocked here back in the day and now I was following in their footsteps.
 
Mariánské Lázně is more of an authentic experience than a place geared up for mass tourism.  It has the vibe of a bygone era transporting visitors to simpler times when the pace of life was less frantic. In other words, you won’t find lots of tacky souvenir shops, rowdy nightclubs or British pubs, but if you are looking for old world charm and tranquillity, you’ll hit the jackpot here.  Remember most of the visitors here are on a health kick or wellness programme so the nightlife is pretty sedate.
 


The spa town of Mariánské Lázně is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has been sympathetically preserved and restored and as well as being rather pleasing on the eye, there’s a range of health benefits on offer if you come here to stay. For many of us, when we think of a spa, generally a facial with our eyes covered in cucumber or a dip in a Jacuzzi comes to mind. That’s not what this is. This is serious health and wellness from the town’s mineral springs which are considered to have healing properties and they are put to good use here. In the wider vicinity of the town, there are around 100 mineral springs and about 40 in Mariánské Lázně itself.
In a magical mix of medical expertise and natural resources such as peat, peat mud, mineral spring water, dry gas baths and more, a range of ailments can be treated here - respiratory problems, circulatory issues, digestive system problems and kidney and urinary tract conditions. There are also water based treatments for improving joint and muscle pain and general stimulation of the immune system. Thankfully, I am in good health and didn’t need anything dealt with but to be honest, the place itself, coupled with glorious sunny weather was probably enough to chase off any of my worries.


 
There's a selection of impressive hotels in Mariánské Lázně and I stayed in the opulent Nové Lázně. Famed for its beautiful Roman baths, there is also an outflow of the Forest spring and Ambrose spring directly into the hotel for mineral water drinking cures and mineral baths. I did manage a sip or two and I suppose, psychologically, I felt I had done at least one good thing for my well-being. It is advised, however, that visitors should consult a doctor about which mineral spring and in what quantity is suitable for you.
 I spent an hour or two in the Roman baths, letting the water carry my cares away and drifted off into a dreamy afternoon nap on one of the loungers by the side of the pools. I’ve never fallen asleep in a public place in my life! If it wasn’t for feeling hungry and the clock approaching dinner time, I think I’d have stayed there for the rest of the night.



There is qualified medical staff onsite and a comprehensive range of procedures as well as regular beauty treatments. It’s so tempting to stay and experience everything the hotel has to offer but, as I discovered to my joy, there’s even more magic happening just up the road.

Off on a wander to soak up the atmosphere of this quaint little corner of the world, I found what I was looking for. Jaw dropping architecture, a nice place to stop for a drink, and a bit of buzz. A short meander from the hotel is the famous Colonnade and the singing fountain.



Built in the 19th century, the Colonnade is an instantly recognisable icon of Mariánské Lázně. The structure cements the grand and elegant vibe of this town and I was told that in days gone by, locals would come here for an evening promenade, dressed in their finery. Not much has changed. As I strolled through it on both Saturday night and Sunday morning, it felt like this was the place to see and be seen. If you do get the chance to visit Mariánské Lázně, a real highlight is seeing the singing fountain which is right outside the Colonnade. There’s a daily programme when the fountain bursts into life with dramatic displays accompanied by music from classical composers such as Dvořák and Verdi, as well as the likes of Andrea Bocelli and Celine Dion. I was treated to another rendition of Smetana’s ‘Vltava’ - a wonderful piece I’d heard at the concert in Prague. It was a sign!
 
If you want to sit for a while and enjoy the vibe, there are nice bars and restaurants which have a lovely selection of reasonably priced drinks, coffees, desserts and snacks. It’s a lovely spot for some people watching or to just enjoy the ambience.
 
If, like me, you’ve not ventured to this part of the world before, you really should look into going. You’ll be surprised at the effect it will have on you and you never know, you might just have found your new ‘go-to’ happy place. I have a sneaky feeling I’ll be back - I can feel it in my water!
 
There you have it, an unexpected love affair from a first visit and as I write this, my heart is beating a little faster as I recall every moment, every view, every corner I turned to see something more beautiful than the last, every note from the concert, every sip of delicious Czech wine, every peaceful minute spent in Mariánské Lázně,  and every person I encountered along the way. Czechia, I miss you and I’m sorry it took me so long to meet you. I’ll be back soon and in the meantime, take good care of my heart.