First time in Czechia - an unexpected love affair

First time in Czechia - an unexpected love affair

Written by Deborah Welsh

First time in Czechia - an unexpected love affair
Follow my adventure and let me show you why it has plenty to ‘Prague’ about…
 I class myself as something of a seasoned traveller and I’ve been captivated by the appeal of seeing new places around the world since I was a teenager. I remember the first time I got on a plane. I was 13. I was lucky enough to go on a school trip to Italy and I was the first member of my family to fly. While most of my travelling companions were mucking about in the airport, giddy with excitement about being away from home for the first time, I was studying the departure boards. I was intrigued by the number of exotic-sounding places that planes could take you and wondered how many of them I might see in my lifetime. The travel bug had hit and it has never left me. I still get the same buzz today and it’s nearly 40 years since that first trip abroad.

I’m lucky to have visited many countries and there are some that appeal to me yet for one reason or another I still haven’t been to. Czechia being one of them. Recently, I was able to put that right and I can’t believe it has taken me so long.  Clichés are often used in travel blogs and I offer this disclaimer now that I might use a few overused, gushy expressions here, but every word is true. The Czech Republic as a holiday destination is simply magical and - here it is - one of the most common phrases we see in travel reviews - there’s something for everyone. Trust me; it has.

The first leg of my trip to the Czech Republic started in the glorious capital city of Prague. To me and many others, I had completely the wrong impression of what this city had to offer. In a way my ignorance was a good thing.  It meant the impact of arriving in what is essentially a storybook setting was far greater than any travel guide could have prepared me for.

All I had really heard about Prague is that lots of stag party groups come here for the beer. Yes, the beer is top notch and much cheaper than a pint in the UK but if you think this is what Prague is all about then think again.
Sure, the advent of budget airlines and cheap flights opened the doors to a host of new and affordable possibilities but Prague is by no means a bargain bucket destination. And, as far as I could see, the number of stag dos are in decline. Yes, there was one group of very cheery chaps on my flight out but I never clapped eyes on them again on my trip. I wonder if there’s a secret place where these groups go for merriment but I certainly didn't experience any rowdy or disruptive behaviour in any part of the city. The biggest crowd and loudest noise was probably the gathering at the famous astronomical clock for the hourly chimes which is hardly party central. Every hour, people gather to enjoy a mechanical performance as the clock comes to life with a procession of the apostles. It’s a fascinating display for what is essentially telling the time but I was mesmerised. Don’t miss it.
 

The first thing I noticed about Prague was the beautiful architecture. Most cities I’ve been to have a skyline worth a second glance but this is on a different level. Imagine the setting of a Christmas movie set in a fictitious faraway land and you will get the picture. I literally felt like I had landed in a fairytale and there was more to come. Soaring spires, ornate cathedrals, castles and palaces sit alongside pretty, colourful buildings that house shops, bars and restaurants in a heady mix of Gothic, Baroque and neoclassical styles. It was love at first sight and my infatuation grew with each passing minute. And the beauty of Prague is more than skin deep too - this city has a soul and a character that felt more tangible with every step I took along the cobbled streets.

I know it’s one of the main tourist hot spots but another highlight of my Prague experience was getting to set foot on the famous Charles Bridge. I had only ever seen it in postcards, brochures and the odd movie. It took my breath away, as did the views I was rewarded with once I was on it. It is one of the most beautiful bridges I have ever seen. A little tip though - try and visit early in the morning or later in the evening when it’s less crowded.
 

As the history books will tell you, it wasn't always happy days here and there were indeed much darker times. However, it seems nobody dwells on the past and Prague has progressed into a modern, vibrant city which has opened its arms and its doors to visitors, moving with the times. Proof of this, if proof were needed, is the harmonious way in which centuries of rich heritage and historical architecture seems to exist quite comfortably with modern day amenities, transport and a lively social and cultural scene.

To say Prague has a lot to offer in terms of arts and entertainment is an understatement. As someone who loves live music and theatre, this is paradise to me. The top quality classical concerts and opera - not to mention the stunning venues - easily gives the likes of London, New York and Vienna a run for their money.
With limited time in Prague before I ventured further afield on my first Czech adventure, I didn't have time to do as much as I wanted but I had the absolute pleasure of attending a live concert in Liechtenstein Palace at Lesser Town Square. What a treat this turned out to be. Five world class musicians delighted us with a crowd-pleasing set list featuring pieces by Vivaldi, Bizet, Debussy, Ravel, Mozart, Tchaikovsky and of course, two famous Czech composers, Bedřich Smetana and Antonín Dvořák. It was a real highlight of my trip. There are pop up concerts happening all over the place, especially within some of the churches and cathedrals. If you get the chance, please support these events. You’ll be glad you did. 


Speaking of churches, I had the privilege of visiting three magnificent places of worship. My first stop was at the Church of Our Lady of the Snow which I happened upon by chance as my tour guide had shown me the Franciscan Gardens - a quiet little oasis in the middle of the city. The other two were big ones that sit in the Old Town Square - St Nicholas Church and the Church of Our Lady Before Týn whose spires are instantly recognisable from the many images you’ll have seen of Prague.
I sat back in awe at the beauty of their interiors and the calm, spiritual atmosphere of them both despite the fact that right outside was a throng of tourists soaking up the unexpected hot May sunshine. They are free to visit but be respectful of anyone at prayer - they are working churches and do leave a donation which helps with the upkeep of these majestic buildings. I’m not Catholic but I felt drawn to the traditions and rituals and lit a candle in hope that my prayers would be answered.
 
Speaking of tour guides, it really is worth taking a private walking tour of Prague. These local experts will give you a wealth of history and knowledge - much more personal than reading a guide book. More often than not, you’ll see hidden parts of the city that you might not have uncovered under your own steam. They are not that expensive and worth doing to get a deeper understanding of Prague and its history. I spent a couple of hours with a brilliant guide who showed me all the main landmarks as well as the back streets and beyond. By the time we finished I felt like I had been in the company of an old friend.


 
If you want to drill deeper into the city and the country’s back story, you can do exactly that in the museums that offer a glimpse into the turbulent past. I went to the National Museum. I got to see the brilliant History of the 20th Century exhibition which, among lots of other fascinating stuff, shows the changes in the country’s political history that took me back in time to the way life used to be under Communist rule.
The Czech Republic came to be when the former Czechoslovakia separated peacefully into two countries in 1993. What was Czechoslovakia became Slovakia and Czech Republic and this year, the country celebrates 30 years of independence since the ‘velvet divorce’.
 
As I mentioned earlier, Prague was just the first leg of my Czech experience and as mind-blowing as the city was and I have indeed fallen in love with it, I suspected there was more to this country than just the ‘city of 100 spires’. Prague is amazing and if it’s simply a short city break to experience jaw-dropping architecture and rich culture then you won’t go wrong, BUT, and here comes the but…
There is so much more to see and do outside of Prague. Yes, it’s hard to leave the capital and I must admit I would have liked to stay longer but I wanted to see more. You can easily get around the Czech Republic on its super efficient train services and experience a whole different side to the country. That is exactly what I decided to do. I was lucky to stay at a brilliant little place - a stone’s throw from Prague’s main railway station. I booked myself a ticket to the spa town of Mariánské Lázně.
Two hours of chill time on the train and another fairytale setting for my Czech adventures awaits…

If you want to follow my journey to Mariánské Lázně click here.